On the Road with The Itchyworms – live music venues, the best okonomiyaki, and more in Kyoto and Osaka

On the Road with The Itchyworms – live music venues, the best okonomiyaki, and more in Kyoto and Osaka

ESTIMATED 

The Itchyworms have been across the world and earlier this October, they took on Japan once more.

From Kyoto to Osaka, there was no hole-in-the-wall okonomiyaki restaurant or ramen house that the ''Di Na Muli' act didn't want to sample. Even the konbinis weren't safe from their cream puff-swiping fingers. The food crawls were epic—you can ask the deer they fed cookies to at Nara Park (though there was one particular deer that had a little nibble out of Jazz Nicolas's fanny). But of course, the Filipino rock band were in Japan for more than the great food; they had three fantastic shows to play to their fans.

A lot of their kababayans came to support the tour as they always do, but there were a few things that made these gigs take some wilder turns compared to previous shows. From pulling Hachi Joseph Yoshida (a local singer-songwriter you'll learn more about from us soon) to join them to sing a Japanese verse of 'Beer' onstage, literally stopping people from entering a venue as it was becoming a fire hazard due to all their fans jumping, to performing at a heavy metal venue alongside hardcore bands, it's safe to say the stories from this 3-stop tour are worthy of getting picked up for a limited series on your favourite streaming platform.

Before heading out to their next adventure in Singapore for the AXEAN Festival, Bandwagon caught up with Jugs Jugueta and Mikey Amistoso of The Itchyworms to look back at five prime spots they highly recommend you to visit on your next trip to Kyoto and Osaka.

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New Suntory 5 Jazz Restaurant

Jugs: It was conveniently located one floor below where we were playing in Osaka (The Blarney Stone Umeda). It is a 53-year-old Jazz Bar, and for that night, they had a New Orleans Jazz band visiting from Australia named Geoff Bull & The Finer Cuts.

When we first entered the place, the owners asked, “Are you sure you want to watch? This is a jazz club. There is a ¥2,000 cover charge per person. And you all have to order food and drinks.” We said YES of course! We all had a great time listening to old school Jazz, and the band leader asked me to play piano. I am totally not a jazz musician, but I was lucky enough that they taught me the chords. What an experience!

Art Studio Domus

Jugs: We stumbled upon a quaint acoustic guitar shop in Osaka near our third venue, Sengoku Daitouryou. The owner is an architect, and modifying acoustic guitars is his hobby. He customizes/alters the sound boards of acoustic guitars to improve the sound quality.

I personally tried some of his “enhanced” acoustic guitars, and they really sounded so good! The acoustic guitar really cuts through! I was so tempted to buy one (a 40-year-old Pearl acoustic) but I didn’t want the hassle of bringing home two guitars and a suitcase full of clothes

SENGOKU DAITORYO

Mikey: We played in three venues for this Japan trip (Live House Gattaca in Kyoto, and The Blarney Stone Umeda and Sengoku Daitoryo in Osaka), but the one that piqued my interest the most was our last stop, Sengoku Daitoryu, because of its location. It is a rock club located inside a subway stop, the Midoribashi station, just by the exit flight of stairs leading to the street. Literally an underground scene, very cool!

Just outside its doors you'll be greeted by posters on the tile wall of different bands and past shows, and the smell of old cigarette smoke and alcohol. It's not the best olfactory experience in the world but it is one that marks the place as an authentic and legit rock club. As you enter, there's a bar, and seats and nooks where you can drink, stand, hang out, socialize and check out the band merch. This is not the performance area yet. There's another door that leads to it. It reminded me of an old rock club in Manila called Club Dredd. The difference is the show area is a real performance space. Inside the small performance area where the bands play, there are no chairs and tables. It's just a space with a stage. I've been dreaming of more venues like this in the Philippines, one where I could perform face-to-face in front of people dancing and moshing to your music, not sitting on tables eating sisig, drinking beer, calling waiters, and having conversation while incidentally glancing at the band performing. Here, if you want to eat, drink and socialize, stay outside at the bar.

We were told beforehand that this is the venue for the hardcore punk and heavy metal scene in Osaka so we were a little intimidated and quite nervous as we entered the venue for soundcheck. However, our nervousness disappeared when we were greeted by friendly staff in red jumpsuits who smilingly helped us set up our gear, and very, very efficiently set our sound thundering through the amps, mics, mixers, and the PA system. As we performed a couple of songs for the soundcheck, they watched us with approving faces. 

Later that night as we powered through our 30-minute set in the venue with the crowd dancing, jumping, and raising their hands and fists, it really felt like a legit rock show, not just a "gig."

P.S. There might or might not be a Japanese woman who's a regular at the bar who will attempt to cuddle with you and kiss you. Drink at the bar at your own risk.

OKONOMIYAKI CHITOSE

Mikey: My wife Marian discovered this place in 2019, and I could never forget how good their okonomiyaki was. So we went back here this year with friends in tow. It's a very small joint that can fit only around 12 people inside, located in a tight alley in Osaka. If you're lucky, you get to sit at the bar where you can see the staff preparing and cooking the okonomiyaki in front of you. One of them might even converse with you and teach you the proper and Osakan way of eating okonomiyaki, which is with the spatula, not with chopsticks.

Expect a line outside and to wait for about 1-2 hours before you can enter. But don't hesitate, IT IS WORTH THE WAIT. My wife and I brought Jazz to this joint. Jazz wasn't a fan of Okonomiyaki, but after eating here, he wouldn't stop raving about it. He's now a fan, but only if the okonomiyaki is from Chitose. I agree with him.

The place has a little hole-in-the-wall charm that makes it even more special. There are even toys and samurai helmets displayed on the walls which you are free to wear and play with while waiting for your food. The okonomiyaki is huge and flavorful. You have the options of different toppings like pork, beef, seafood and more. You even have the option to add noodles to the mix to convert it into "modanyaki" (okonomiyaki with fried noodles).

The Blarney Stone Umeda

Jugs: This was the venue for the Kansai Music Conference gig, c/o Duane Levi. The Itchyworms played for KMC virtually during the pandemic, and we couldn’t pass up the slot to play again for them when they gave us an opportunity to play in Osaka!

The house was super packed!!! I couldn’t believe that they had to deny people entrance, because it was already as full as a sardine can! We were told that one girl even fainted. (Don’t worry, she’s alright!) The gig was so happy, we couldn’t stop playing! A lot of people travelled two or more hours just to watch us. Nakakataba ng puso. Thank you to all our Kababayans who watched! Special shoutout to the Philippine Embassy in Osaka who helped spread the word to our countrymen!


On the Road is an ongoing Bandwagon series, where touring bands share stories of life on tour, their favourite spots, travel recommendations, and more.